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How to make my home safe for my cat?
Check all windows and screens to make sure they are very strong. Cats can push weak or torn screens out from the frame or tear them. Cats can escape even from second or third story (or higher!) windows and may injure themselves in the process.
It is best to install new steel screens, or place metal grilles such as the ones available for screen doors over windows you wish to keep open. If in doubt, keep the window closed at night and while you are away.
If you have a balcony, do not let the cat get out there. Cats often try to leap onto railings or after birds and may fall. Balconies are not safe places for cats.
Remove plants that may be poisonous. Cats love to chew plants, and some cats may use potted plants as a litter box, so try to hang all plants out of reach or move them outside. If you are not sure if your plants are poisonous to cats, ask your vet. Common plants that are poisonous include; philodendrons, ferns, all lillies, and pointsettias. One taste of a lily can kill a cat.
Lock up all cleaning supplies, drain openers, medications, and other poisonous substances. Place them in a sealable plastic container with a latched lid and keep them out of reach of the cat.
Make sure antifreeze is not accessible and do not allow your cat in places where leaked fluids can poison her. Animals are attracted to the sweet taste of antifreeze and other toxic substances that may be laying around.
Check for pest poisons and remove them. Rat poison, ant poison, roach poison and rodent traps are all dangerous to cats. If you rent your home or recently moved in, do a thorough check for existing poisons, as sometimes they are left behind by previous tenants. Check the backs of cupboards, closets, etc... Cats can also become sick or die from eating mice or insects that have ingested the poison.
Remove dangling cords such as the strings from blinds and phone cords. Cats can't resist playing with these items and can become entangled and may hang or choke on them. Tie up cords from blinds near the top of the window. Some cats (especially kittens) may also chew electrical cords and could be electrocuted, so make sure your cords are tucked away.
Put away breakable items, especially on bookshelves and countertops where cats may investigate. Make sure shelves and furniture are stable and will not tip over.
Pick up any small, swallowable items and strings. Rubber bands, paper clips, string, thumb tacks, broken balloons, tree tinsel and other small articles pose a choking hazard. String can cut the intestines if swallowed. If your cat ever swallows string, NEVER pull it out from either end – you can cause internal damage. Call your vet immediately. If the string is very long, cut the string near the cat to reduce the chance of it catching on something and getting pulled.
EXTRA CAUTION WITH KITTENS. Kittens will get into very small places; always be sure to check on them before starting appliances, moving anything or sitting in a chair. Kittens have been injured or killed in clothes driers, reclining chairs, dresser drawers, and many other places you'd never imagine. So be safe – always know where your kitten is!
Show moreHow can I house-train my dog?
Dogs by their very nature do not want to soil/dirty themselves. They have some level of cleanliness and they do not want their sleeping and eating areas to be dirty. Where they poop or urinate becomes a habit with a dog.
The first thing you can do is set up an area for training. Some place like a small bathroom.
Spend alot of time in your dog's training area.
Let the dog eat and sleep in this area and play with your dog there as well.
Provide a bed in this area, the bed could be a small pillow, towel, blankets, or anything soft that the dog will sleep on.
When the dog realizes that this area is his/her sleeping and eating area, he/she will not want to poop or urinate there.
The time your dog eats will affect when he/she wants to use the toilet; feed your dog at set times everyday so he/she gets used to going to the toilet area at set times of the day.
When you start taking your dog outside to poop or urinate, teach him/her a specific word, try to repeat the same word over.
You can use whatever words you want such as "go potty", "go poop", etc... By repeating the same words each time, it will become another command for your dog and he/she will be able to do it when you mention the command.
Take him/her to the same spot every time; dogs recognize the smell and go back exactly at the same place over and over.
If your puppy urinates somewhere inside, by accident, make sure you clean the floor or carpet thoroughly so the smell totally goes away.
You can train your dog faster by giving praise and treats each time he/she goes outside.
Never punish your dog, he/she will get confused.
Show moreWhat do I need to bring my cat or dog to Lebanon?
Bringing your cat to Lebanon is simple. As per our information you will need the following.
- A health certificate from an official veterinarian from the country you are coming from. The certificate must state that the animal is fit to travel.
- An updated booklet with the medical history of the animals, and the rabies vaccines must be clear and up to date.
For more accurate information, you can contact Dr. Michel Salameh, the official veterinarian at the airport, on this number +961 3 414070.
As an extra precaution, Animals Lebanon advise everyone to abide by IATA regulations when flying with your pets. The animal must be able to stand, stretch and lay down inside the crate he is travelling in.
Also, for cats, it is always preferrable to extra secure the door of the cage.
Finally, for your pet's comfort make sure to have a couple of pee pads inside the crates.
Show more
My cat is scratching the furniture, should I have him declawed?
To cats, clawing is a natural, healthy, and important behavior. Cats claw to exercise and enjoy themselves, to maintain the condition of their nails, to stretch their muscles, and to mark their territory—both visually and with scent.
Declawing is not like a manicure. It's a serious surgery that involves 10 individual amputations—not just of the cats' nails but of the last digit of each toe as well.
Cats often experience extreme pain when they awaken from the surgery and often have difficulty walking.
Declawing results in a gradual weakening of leg, shoulder, and back muscles. Because of impaired balance caused by the procedure, declawed cats have to relearn how to walk, much as a person would after losing his or her toes. After the surgery, the nails can grow back inside the paw, causing extreme pain unbeknownst to the cat's guardian.
Without claws, even house-trained cats might start to urinate and defecate outside the litterbox in an attempt to mark their territory. Declawed cats might become morose, reclusive, withdrawn, irritable, aggressive, and unpredictable.
Many people think that declawed cats are safer around babies, but, in fact, the lack of claws (a cat's first line of defense) makes many cats feel so insecure that they tend to bite more often as a means of self-protection.
Nearly two dozen countries—including England, Australia, and Japan—have prohibited or severely restricted veterinarians from performing the painful, permanently crippling, and mutilating procedure. Many compassionate veterinarians refuse to declaw cats, even in areas where the procedure is legal, because declawing is cruel and of no benefit to cats—and it violates veterinarians' oath to "do no harm."
With a little bit of patience and effort, it's easy to keep cats from shredding couches and curtains—without resorting to cruel declawing surgery.
The above information is courtesy of PETA (http://www.peta.org/living/companion-animals/declawing.asp)
Show moreI have a dog, how can I introduce a new cat?
Dogs and cats that have not experienced each other will require some extra time to become accustomed to each other. Dogs usually want to chase and play with cats, and cats are usually afraid and defensive.
You can use any of the techniques described in “Introducing a new cat to other cats” in this section. If your dog does not already know the commands “sit,” “down,” “come,” and “stay,” you should begin working on them. Little tidbits of food increase your dog’s motivation to perform, which will be necessary in the presence of such a strong distraction as a new cat.
1. Begin as described for introducing to a resident cat. Once the cat is comfortable in the house and has been introduced to the smells of the dog, you can attempt a face to face introduction in a controlled manner. Put your dog’s leash on, and command him to either “sit” or “down” and “stay,”.
2. Have another family member enter the room and quietly sit down with the cat on his or her lap. At first, the cat and dog should be on opposite sides of the room. Praise both and give treats.
3. Repeat this step several times until both the cat and dog are tolerating each other without fear, aggression, or other uncontrollable behavior.
4. Next, move the animals a little closer together, with the dog still on a leash and the cat gently held in a lap. If the cat does not like to be held, you can use a wire crate or carrier instead. If the dog gets up from its “stay” position, he should be firmly repositioned, and praised and rewarded for obeying the “stay” command. If the cat becomes frightened, increase the distance between the animals and progress more slowly. Providing the cat with a cat tree or high place to be above the dog will help her feel more confident.
5. Try to direct each session so the dog is likely to do the right thing and get praise. Although your dog must be taught that chasing or being rough with the cat is unacceptable behavior, if your dog is always punished whenever the cat is around, and never has “good things” happen in the cats presence, your dog may associate the cat with unpleasant reprimands.
6. You may want to keep your dog on a leash and with you when the cat is free in the house during the introduction process. Be sure that your cat has an escape route, and a place to hide. Keep the dog and cat separated when you aren’t home until you are certain they will both be safe.
Precautions: Dogs like to eat cat food, but it’s not good for them because it is very high in protein. Keep cat food out of the dog’s reach (in a closet, on a high shelf, etc...). Likewise, cats should not eat dog food exclusively as it may cause dietary deficiencies.
Show moreHow can I care for orphan kittens so they are raised healthy?
A kitten may need hand raising because the mother has died, become ill, rejected the kittens or abandoned them.
Kittens should not be taken from the mother before 5 to 6 weeks of age if possible. (For wild kittens you may want to take them away from the mother at 4 weeks to tame them. As they get older, taming gets progressively harder.) The longer the mother cat is able to feed the kittens the better it is, since young kittens need mother's milk for best nutrition as well as important antibodies. This passive immunity usually lasts until the kittens are 6-14 weeks of age. Since orphans have no such protection, they are especially vulnerable to disease.
First try finding a foster feline mother; breeders, veterinarians and animal shelters may know of nursing cats in your area. Try calling any "cat people" that you know for leads as well. Cats will very often feed kittens other than their own.
If you must feed them yourself before weaning age, you must devote considerable energy and weeks of constant care if the kitten is to have a good chance at survival. The younger the kitten, the more fragile it is. Very young kittens may not survive without a mother no matter how good the care.
WARMTH AND FIRST AID
As soon as you find an orphaned kitten it must be protected from the cold and from becoming chilled. Place it under your clothes next to your skin. Most of the young kitten's energy is needed for growth and yelling for more food, so there' won't be much energy left over for heat generation. Normally the mother cat and litter mates would provide a good deal of warmth. During their first week, kittens should be kept between 31 and 33 dgrees celsius (88 and 92 degrees Fahrenheit).
For the next 2 weeks they still need temperatures of 26.5 degrees celsius (80 degrees Fahrenheit) or so. When they reach around 5 weeks they can tolerate a lower room temperature.
If possible, take the kitten to a veterinarian to be checked out for dehydration and general condition. Kittens can become dehydrated very quickly without a mother and may need fluids under the skin. Kittens that are dehydrated from lack of fluids or diarrhea will have very little energy or appetite, so this is important to take care of immediately. Stools should be checked for worms and parasites. The vet can supply a lot of advice on hand raising kittens as well as needed supplies so don't skip this step.
When you get the kitten home you must continue to provide warmth. Find a place in your home that is warm, draft-free and isolated.
Feeding can be done with an eyedropper or a nursing bottle (available at the vet). If using the eyedropper be careful not to force feed the kitten. Let the baby suck the fluid at its own pace, otherwise you can fill the baby's lungs with milk and cause pneumonia.
If the baby is old enough to suckle, the bottle method is best.
All utensils should be sterilized before each feeding.
To feed your kitten, place it stomach down on a towel or other textured surface to which it can cling. Open its mouth gently with the tip of your finger, then slip the nipple between its jaws.
To prevent air from entering the kitten's stomach, hold the bottle at a 45-degree angle, keeping a light pull on the bottle to encourage vigorous sucking.
If a suckling kitten aspirates formula into its lungs, immediately hold it upside down until the choking subsides. If the kitten is not strong enough to suckle, seek veterinary assistance ASAP.
Formula should be warmed to body temperature and fed to small kittens every 3-4 hours. As they get older every 6-8 hours will be enough. Check the package for recommended feeding amounts and feedings per day. A kitten needs approximately 8 cc’s of formula per ounce of body weight per day. The kitten's age determines the number of daily feedings it should receive.
When a kitten has had enough formula, bubbles will form around its mouth, and its tummy will be rounded. After each meal, burp the kitten by holding it upright against you shoulder and patting it lightly on the back.
Do not overfeed kittens, as this can bring on diarrhea as well as other problems.
FEEDING GUIDE
AGE IN AVG. WEIGHT AMOUNT OF FORMULA NUMBER OF FEEDINGS
WEEKS OF KITTEN PER DAY PER DAY
1 4oz - 113g 32 cc 6
2 7oz - 198g 56 cc 4
3 10oz - 283g 80 cc 3
4 13oz - 368g 104 cc 3
5 1lb - 453g 128 cc 3
For kittens with a lack of appetite or anemia, vitamin/mineral supplements (available at the vet and pet food stores) will stimulate appetite and rebuild systems. Follow the directions on the bottle for dosage and give direct by dropper or add to food.
Kittens should be weighed frequently to ensure that they are growing properly. You'll soon know if your orphans are thriving because they will grow at an incredible rate.
STIMULATION
The kitten's natural mother takes care of both ends of her baby. By licking the kitten's abdomen, she stimulates the bowels and bladder and tidies up the resulting mess. A surrogate cat mom should gently rub the kitten's abdomen and bottom with a cotton ball or pad or tissues moistened with warm water. This stimulates the discharge of waste and keeps babies clean. Be careful to rub only enough to get them to expel waste materials. Keep the area clean and watch for chafing which might indicate that you are rubbing too hard or not cleaning well enough.
When you feed and clean the kittens, wash their fur all over with a barely damp towel using short stokes as the mother would use. This cleans their fur, teaches them to clean their fur, and gives them a feeling of attention and well-being.
If the kittens have diarrhea and become caked with stool, it is easier on their skin to wash them in warm water.
The kitten's instinctive need to suckle (frustrated by the lack of the mother's breast) may cause the kitten to suckle its litter mate's ears, tail or genitals, causing irritations to develop. Try to satisfy this oral need by caressing each kitten's mouth with your finger or a soft cloth.
FLEAS
Abandoned kittens will need to be cleaned and rid of fleas soon after they are found. Flea anemia can hamper any attempt to save the kitten and fleas carry tape worm eggs.
The vet will carry flea sprays suitable for use on kittens. Always check the manufacturer’s instructions for use on kittens. After using the spray (as directed on the bottle for kittens) place the kitten on a towel that can be removed with the dead and dying fleas 20 to 30 minutes later.
WEANING
If necessary, you may begin weaning the kitten at 4 weeks of age. Start by feeding it formula in a bowl. Then gradually introduce solid food. Or you can moisten dry kitten food with formula or water. Don't expect the kitten to be weaned overnight. As it eats more often from the bowl, reduce the bottle feedings. We prefer to use Royal Canin baby cat formula.
Canned kitten food can also be used to introduce the kitten to solid food. Young kittens cannot chew dry kitten food without moistening. Check instructions on the container. Try to buy high quality food for the kittens (from the vet or pet food stores). Much of what is sold in supermarkets is pure junk food and may not help your kitten thrive.
Changes in diet or certain foods can cause diarrhea, so keep an eye on stools. Diarrhea can be life-threatening to a young kitten.
LITTER BOX TRAINING
The 4 week mark is a good time to introduce the kitten to the litter box too. Place the kitten in the box after each meal. You may have to take the kitten's paw and show it how to scratch in the litter. Usually the kitten will catch on quickly.
LOVE AND ATTENTION
Besides food and warmth the kitten needs emotional closeness. Pet it frequently and let it snuggle against your warm skin.
Some experts believe that hand-raised kittens show higher intelligence, greater loyalty and deeper affection for their owners. Cat trainers also recommend lots of handling for kittens and swear that this makes them easier to train.
Some experts argue that no adequate parental substitute for the natural mother cat exists.
MILESTONES
At birth, a kitten should weigh 56 to 113 grams (2 to 4 ounces). By the end of its first week it should double in body weight. The kitten should open its eyes at about 8 days. The eyes will stay blue for about 2 more weeks. (The true eye color will not appear until the kitten is about 3 months old.)
At 2 weeks the ears will start to stand up. At about 3 weeks the kitten will try to walk. At 4 weeks kittens start to play with each other and develop teeth.
Check with your veterinarian as to the timing of the needed vaccinations.
The kitten should be ready for adoption at 8 weeks.
HEALTH PROBLEMS
Orphaned kittens are especially vulnerable to diseases. At the first sign of any abnormal behavior or loss of appetite, take them to the veterinarian.
Colds, like upper respiratory infections, are caused by various viruses and claim many kittens each year. Some of these same viruses, or an organism known as Chlamydia, can also cause permanent damage to a kitten's eyes. If bacteria invade the infected eye the organisms can puncture the tough covering, resulting in blindness. Even a lesser infection can leave the eyeball badly scarred.
Diarrhea can result from disease, food changes, worms, or overfeeding. The resulting dehydration can be deadly.
Distemper is also a chronic danger to young cats, especially those who did not have the advantage of the mother cat's antibodies. It is airborne, very contagious, and often a killer.
A FINAL WORD
Caring for an orphaned kitten can be difficult and even the most conscientious foster parent may lose a little one. If a kitten dies, the substitute parent should not blame himself or herself. Nor should you accept all the credit if the kitten thrives.
A kitten is most likely to die at birth, in its first week, or while weaning. But, armed with common sense and an ability to care (as well as accurate information), you have a good chance of raising a motherless waif to the adoption age - or beyond.
CREDITS
This information sheet is a compilation of articles appearing in "Cat Fancy" magazine, "I Love Cats" magazine, as well as the wealth of experience generously shared by some wonderful surrogate moms.
Show moreMy cat lives in our house but occasionally goes out. Is it safe for her to wander freely outside?
Although cats are smart and alert, they are no match for the many perils that await them outisde. That's why the average lifespan for an outdoor cat is 5 years, compared to an average lifespan of 15 years for an indoor cat!
EXAMPLES OF DANGERS TO OUTDOOR CATS:
Cars:Cats are incapable of understanding something that moves as quickly as a car. Cars kill countless outdoor cats everyday.
Animal Attacks: Dogs and other animals may attack and wound or kill cats. Other cats may fight with yours and cause injuries that could lead to infections, disease, and abcesses.
Disease: Outdoor cats encounter other cats and pick up life-threatening diseases. Many of these communicable diseases have no effective vaccines and no cure.
Accidents: Other than car accidents, outdoor cats are in danger of being poisoned, getting caught in traps set for other animals, getting trapped into abandonded buildings or construction areas and starving, as well as other countless accidents.
Human Malice: Not everyone loves cats. There are some people who may torture and/or kill animals; some intentionally poison or harm cats because they are "annoyed" with them or they "dig up their garden" or they are "noisy", while others are sadistic people who torture or kill the animals for amusement. Keep your cat safe from such people...Keep your cat indoors!
Show moreMy cat is not using her litterbox, what should I do?
Cats are extremely clean animals and always tend to use the litterbox. There are several possible reasons why cats may urinate or poop outside the litter box:
1. Medical Condition:
In about 90% of cases when cats do not use the litterbox, it is due to a medical problem such as a bladder infection or urinary tract crystals. These conditions are very painful and the cat may avoid the litter box because he associates it with the pain, and as a cry for help.
As a first step you need to take your cat to the vet to rule out any medical conditions. The vet would run a urinalysis to check for these problems.
The vet may find that the cat has a bladder infection and prescribe a course of antibiotics. If left untreated a bladder infection can spread to the kidneys and make the cat very ill causing permanent damage to the kidneys. Urinary tract crystals can lead to blockages, but it can often be treated with regulating the diet if caught early.
When your cat has such problems, always feed her premium canned food or a raw homemade diet (see www.catnutrition.org for more information). High protien, high moisture food are shown to produce an acidic urine which reduces the incidence or recurrence of bladder infections. Dry foods lead to urinary tract problems due to chronic dehydration and alkaline urine.
Encourage high water consumption to help prevent minor urinary tract irritations that can lead to worse problems. By drinking plenty of water your cat's urinary tract will be flushed out, helping to reduce the levels of bacteria and reduce the formation of crystals in the urine. Always leave out fresh bottles or filtered water daily. Cats have a very sensitive sense of smell and chlorinated tap water will discourage them from drinking. Feeding a portion of the diet as canned food is also a great way to increase water intake and prevent urinary tract problems.
2. Dislike of type of litter, box location, or scared of box:
Your cat may dislike the type of litter you are using. Stay away from scented litter or pellet textured litter as many cats are repelled by the smell and strange texture. It is best to stick to plain litter or clumping litter.
Try to have one litter box for each cat in your home. Cats are very clean and territorial about their litter and do not want to step in their own or another cat's mess. Unless you can clean a single litter box several times a day, use multiple boxes and clean them at least once per day.
Avoid small boxes or short covered boxes as your cat needs enough room to stand up and turn around comfortably. Do not use boxes with doors because cats don't like feeling trapped.
Make sure the box is placed in a quiet private place, but not one that is difficult to get to. If you have a large home, it's good to place boxes in different areas so your cat doesn't find herself far away from a box when nature calls.
If a box is placed in a room where noise often scares the cat (laundry room or garage) or where the cat can be closed out of sometimes (bathroom), it can discourage the cat.
3. Territorial marking (usually in the form of vertical spraying)
Cats that have not been spayed/neutered have a tendency to mark their territory by spraying or urinating around the house. This behaviour is also accompanied by constant and loud meawing. It is best to spay/neuter your cat to eliminate such behaviours. To read more on spaying and neutering please go to the "spaying and neutering" section.
To eliminate traces of urine smells from the areas where the cats have sprayed, make sure to clean it thoroughly by soaking the carpet or furniture and leaving it to dry slowly. This is important because if the cat smells the urine there, it is most likely he will go there again. After the areas are dry, spray it with a product called "Feliway". "Feliway" is a spray applied to walls, floors and furniture to prevent territorial urination. It mimics the pheromones that cats produce in their facial glands (www.feliway.com).
4. Stress and fear:
Some cats may develop changes in behavior under stress. Try to keep your cat's life predictable and routine. For example, feed at the same time each day and play at the same time each day. The more the cat feels her life is orderly and she has control, the less likely she is to feel nervous or stressed.
Never punish a cat in any way for going outside the box - cats do not respond to negative reinforcement and punishment will only cause stress which leads to more litterbox problems. If you see your cat having an accident, ignore her, clean up the mess immediately and pretend it did not happen. Trying to convey your displeasure will not help stop her.
5. Pain from declawing:
Declawing involves the removal of the last bone in each finger of the paw. The joing is severed and the claw is removed along with the last bone which it is attached to. This extremely painful operation causes ongoing complications in many cats. Nerve damage is a common problem and early onset osteoarthritis is frequent. Pain due to the mutilation known as declawing is sure to deter a cat from stepping into a litterbox full of gritty material that hurts her paws even more.
If you cat is declawed and has shown an aversion to the litterbox, bring her to a vet for an exam to detect osteoarthritis, phantom pain, bone regrowths or other problems that can occur days or years after the surgery.The vet may be able to do something to alleviate or reduce the pain.
Using a very soft-textured clumping non-clay litter is recommended.
6. Kittens may not have yet learned to use the litterbox:
Most kittens learn from their mother how to use a litterbox. However, some kittens taken from their mother early or born outdoors do not figure it out right away. Litter-training a kitten is not nearly as involved as house training a puppy; kittens pretty much train themselves.
Confine the kitten(s) in one room with the litterbox and gently place them in the box right after each meal.
Use a litter box they can easily get in and out of, and do not use clumping clay litter for kittens. If you allow the kitten out into a large area she may get lost and not find her way back to the box in time when nature calls, so gradually allow her our for longer periods once she is using the box.
Show moreHow much will it cost me to have a dog?
Before you welcome a dog into your home, you need to make sure that you can provide all his needs. Beside his daily walks and a great deal of affection, a dog incurs some expenses. It is impossible to specify an exact amount of yearly expenses, but here is a list of things you need to consider:
1. Food
2. Internal and external parasite treatments
3. Annual vet checks and vaccination boosters
4. Trips to the vet in the event of injury/illness
5. Replacement grooming equipment and food/water bowls
6. Professional grooming charges (where applicable)
7. Treats
8. Toys
9. Training fees (where applicable)
10. Boarding kennel charges when you are on holiday (in case he doesn't go with you)
Show moreMy dog barks alot, my neighbors are complaining, what can I do?
If your dog is barking too much, you'll need to take steps to both find out WHY and to treat the cause.
1. Toys and Excercise
One of the main causes of excessive barking is frustration and pent-up energy. Remember, dogs are active creatures that NEED at least one long walk of at least one hour every day. Ideally, your dog should be walked three times a day, of which two walks should be long. If they don't get this basic requirement, they become anxious, moody, hyperactive, and frustrated - which they'll express through barking.
2. Citronella Collars
"Anti-bark" collars are available, which spray a fine mist of citronella spray into your dog's face whenever he barks. This is an effective way of stopping your dog barking: citronella is HIGHLY offensive to dogs, and being sprayed at such a close range is hard on their delicate, super-alert noses.
It's worth considering this from your dog's point of view, however. Stopping a dog from barking without finding out why he was barking in the first place isn't a particularly humane way of exercising control over your dog. There WILL be a reason; more often than not, excessive barking is signaling intense frustration and excess energy.
3. Changing the environment
If your dog can see through the fence - for example, if it's chain-link or slatted wood - then he can see everyone that walks past. This will generally trigger territorial instincts (particularly if dogs walk by) like loud, repetitive barking.
Whenever someone passes by, it reinforces your dog's impression that he's doing a job: in this case, scaring off potential intruders. Someone walks along, he barks, the person soon vanishes from sight - the dog thinks, "I just scared that person off" and continues barking at everyone who comes along.
Ideally, your yard should be highly fenced with a material that your dog can't see through. This can have a dramatically quietening effect upon the most confirmed barkers.
4. Provide a distraction
Before you do anything for your dog, he has to do something for you first. Sometimes, dogs test the boundaries by attempting to make YOU do things for THEM. Barking to 'get things' - attention, pats, a toy, a meal - isn't acceptable behavior: he's trying to dominate you. You dole out affection on YOUR terms, not his. As soon as he's quiet again, though, feel free to show him as much attention as you like, especially if you get him to do something for you first: for example, before he gets fed, he has to sit on command.
You can also try an aversion tactic: every time your dog barks repetitively, you can spray him with water from a water-pistol, or shake a can filled with pebbles.
Make sure he's not aware that you're the cause of the noise. If he knows it's you, it will begin to erode the trust between the two of you; and, he will probably still bark whenever you're not around.
Timing is very important when using this technique; you have to spray him/shake the can AS SOON AS he starts to bark. If you're even a little bit off, he'll get confused and the message won't get through.
A lot of people see barking as something to be gotten rid of, not a symptom of something else. It's important that you realize that, by barking, your dog is attempting to communicate something important to you; don't just regard it as a nuisance to be silenced at all costs.
The above information is courtsey of (http://www.dogobedienceadvice.com/dog_barking_solutions.php)
Show moreWhat is FIV and how can I protect my cat from it?
FIV or Feline Immunodeficiency Virus is a virus in cats that is similar to the human virus HIV (Human Immunodeficiency Virus). However, FIV does NOT infect humans and HIV does NOT infect cats.
How do cats catch FIV?
The virus, present in the blood, saliva and other body fluids of infected cats, is very delicate and cannot survive for long periods outside the cat. It can not be transferred from cat to cat on people's hands or clothes. FIV is transmitted primarily when cats fight and injure each other, but it can also be passed from an infected female cat to her kittens.
Do all cats that get the virus become permanently infected?
Yes. Although a cat will produce antibodies, these are ineffective. Once a cat acquires FIV, she will be FIV positive for the rest of her life.
What are the signs of FIV?
There is an incubation period of months or even years where your cat is perfectly healthy before any signs of infection appear. Many infected cats live years of normal life and may even die from something else entirely before their FIV infection causes any problems.
Signs of FIV are varied but usually result from a weakened immune system and therefore a vulnerablity to other infections. Once the disease develops infected cats may:
- become repeatedly ill, example of cat flu, sore gums, skin disease or digestive problems
- seem 'off-color' or have high temperatures
- take a long time to recover from infections
- lose weight
- develop tumors
How do I have my cat tested for FIV?
Vets can perform a quick test that detects the antibodies to the virus in the blood. However, as false positive results may occur, it is recommended that positive results (particulary those from otherwise healthy cats) are sent for confirmation using a different test at an external laboratory.
Is there any treatment for FIV?
There is currently no reliable treatement for FIV and it is not possible to predict if and when signs develop. Vets will treat each FIV positive cat individually, depending on the signs they develop. Treatment may involve:
- Antibiotics and/or anti-inflammatory drugs as appropriate for secondary recurrent infections
- Drugs that may help through direct anti-viral activity
- Keeping infected cats indoors, with a good diet and ensuring they are fully vaccinated and regulary treated against fleas and worms will help protect them from secondary infections, as well as helping to prevent the spread of FIV to other cats.
Can I protect my cat against FIV?
Unfortunately, there is no vaccine for FIV, getting your cat spayed/neutered will reduce their chance of contracting FIV through fighting. Keeping your cat indoors at all times will also reduce the chance of coming in contact with other cats that may be infected with FIV.
Show moreWhat is FPV and how can I protect my cat from it?
FPV or Feline Parvovirus is a virus that can cause severe disease in cats - particulary kittens. It can be fatal.
FPV is also known as Feline Infections Enteritis (FIE) and Feline Panleucopenia.
FPV is extremely resilient and can survive in the environment for up to a year. Sadly, this disease has a very high mortality rate and, on occasions, outbreaks are seen in multi-cat situations such as households with unvaccinated cats, breeders or catteries.
FPV does NOT affect humans or dogs, but Canine Parvovirus can occasionally infect cats.
How are cats infected with FPV?
Most cats contract FPV from a contaminated environment via infected feces rather than from infected cats The virus passes quickly through the cat and most will only shed FPV in their feces for a couple of days, although shedding can occur for up to six weeks. However, it is possible for the infection to be passed directly from cat to cat, particularly in environments where many cats are in direct contact with each other.
A specialized disinfectant is required to kill FPV.
What are the signs of FPV?
Not all cats infected with FPV show signs but if they do, they may include the following:
- Vomiting, bringing up froth or being wet around the lips
- A variable temperature - usually raised in the early stages, and low later on
- Hunger and thirst with an inability to eat or drink - affected cats often sit hunched over bowls
- Watery diarrhea with or without food
Unfortunately, sometimes no obvious signs are present and a cat will die without apparent warning.
If a pregnant cat is infected with FPV, the nervous system, specifically the brains, of her unborn kittens may be damaged. When they are born they will have problems with their balance, resulting in a wobbly gait. They may also have difficulty feeding as their heads will keep bobbing up and down.
How is FPV treated?
There is no cure for FPV. However, if the disease is detected in time, the symptoms can be treated and many cats recover after intensive care which include good nursing, fluid therapy and assisted feeding.
How can FPV be prevented?
Vaccination is the main method of prevention. Primary vaccination courses usually start at nine weeks of age with a second booster shot at twelve weeks of age. Adult cats should receive annual boosters. The FPV vaccine is usually combined with other disease vaccines, such as cat flu and Feline Leukaemia Virus.
Care must be taken when vaccinating pregnant cats against FPV as some vaccines affect unborn kittens.
Good hygiene, isolation and barrier nursing of infected cats is imperative to prevent spreading of this disease to other susceptible cats.
What should I do now that FPV has been diagnosed?
Any areas where the infected cat has been and anywhere the virus may have been spread (such as bottome of shoes) will potentially have high levels of the virus which may remain infectious for many months. If you have more than one cat, it is best to ensure the virus does not spread. Disposable aprons, gloves, show covers and equipment would be recommended to prevent transmission of the virus to other areas.
It is important to reduce the contamination by removing any fecal matter and thoroughly disinfecting the area with a suitable veterinary disinfectant. Particular attention should be paid to litter trays, food/water bowls and bedding.
The virus can last for many months in the environment, so it is recommended that only cats that have been fully vaccinated are introduced to the area after an outbreak. Suceptible cats or kittens should not be introduced to the contaminated environment for at least a year.
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Can you recommend a good veterinarian for me?
There are many vets throughout Lebanon, each with their own expertise and way of working. We recommend that you contact the Lebanese Veterinary Order by calling 01871590 or email info@lebanonvet.org and they can advise a vet in your area.
Animals Lebanon works with many vets including:
-Dr. Ali Hemade, PetCare Veterinary Clinic, 03-623083
-Dr. Elias Nicolas, Animal House Hospital, Antelias, 03-664969
-Dr. Abdo Kallassy, Le Veto, Monot, 03-840810
-Dr. Walid Darwich, Animed, Jounieh, 03-822121
-Dr. Rosemary Jawhary, Khaldeh, 03-607525
Show moreI have a cat, how easy is it to introduce a new cat?
Cats that live in the same house may never become the best of friends, but usually learn to at least accept each other. You will need to take some time to introduce your cat to other family pets in order to prevent problems.
1. Place the new cat in one room with its litter box, food, water, and a bed. Feed the present cats and the newcomer near either side of the door to this room. Gradually move the dishes closer to the door until the cats can eat calmly directly on either side. Next, use two door stops to prop open the door just enough to allow the cats to see each other, and repeat the whole process.
2. A product called Feliway (www.feliway.com) - available online - can be useful when introducing a new cat – it mimics relaxing pheromones that cats exude from their cheek glands. Spraying doorways and furniture where the cats encounter each other with Feliway can help ease introductions.
3. Switch sleeping blankets between the new cat and resident cats so they have a chance to become accustomed to each other’s scent.
4. Once the new cat is using her box and eating regularly while placed alone, let her have free time in the house while locking the other cats. This switch provides another way for the cats to experience each other’s scent without a face to face meeting. It also allows the newcomer to become familiar with her new surroundings without being frightened by other animals.
5. Avoid any interactions between the cats which result in either fearful or aggressive behavior. If these responses are allowed to become a habit, they can be difficult to change. If either cat becomes very fearful or aggressive, separate them, and continue the introduction process in a series of gradual steps, as outlined above. You’ll need to add another litter box and scoop and clean all the boxes more frequently. Make sure that none of the cats is being “ambushed” by another while trying to use the box.
Expect hissing, spitting and growling. If a cat breaks out, do not interfere directly. Instead throw a blanket over each cat, wrapping the blanket around the cat before picking him up. Separate the cats until they have calmed down. It may be best to leave the cats separated when you are not home until you are sure they are getting along well.
Successful introductions usually require time and patience; don’t expect things to be perfect overnight!
Show moreWhat is Toxoplasmosis? and should I be concerned?
When women who have a cat become pregnant, the situation may present some challenges, but do not worry, none of them are even remotely devastating. You just need a little planning and the know-how.
Cats and babies have coexisted peacefully for thousands of years. In fact, raising your child with animals helps build up a good immune system as well as promotes a sense of affection, understanding, self-worth, and responsibility among children.
The problem that scares women when pregnant is Toxoplasmosis.
What is Toxoplasmosis?
Toxoplasmosis is a parasitic disease caused by the protozoan Toxoplasma gondii. The parasite infects most genera of warm-blooded animals, including humans, but the primary host is the felid (cat) family. Animals are infected by eating infected meat, by ingestion of faeces of a cat that has itself recently been infected, or by transmission from mother to fetus. (Wikipedia.org)
How to avoid it?
Because Toxoplasmosis can cause birth defects in children, pregnant women sometimes assume that they must get rid of their cat. This is entirely unnecessary, as a few simple measures will thoroughly safeguard against catching the disease, especially from your cat.
Toxoplasmosis is a disease caused by a parasite that can infect your cat if she eats prey already harbouring the parasite or comes into contact with contaminated soil. Toxoplasmosis is rare among indoor-only cats.
Note that cats who contract Toxoplasmosis do not always show symptoms.
To prevent getting infected with the disease, whenever you scoop or clean the litter box, wear disposable gloves and wash your hands immediately afterward. Even better, get a friend or adult member of the family to take over litter box maintenance during your pregnancy.
Furthermore, Toxoplasmosis is not only found in cat faeces. Eating raw or undercooked meat is the most common way that humans contract Toxoplasmosis. If you eat meat, wash off all surfaces and utensils that touched raw meat, and don't prepare meat and raw foods like salads on the same cutting board. Wash your hands thoroughly after handling raw meat.
Also, if you garden, wear gloves when working in the soil. The Toxoplasmosis parasite lives in the dirt, so also wash your hands well after gardening.
Many people naturally acquire immunity to Toxoplasmosis, and will not pass it on to their unborn child. In fact, the chances are that you have already been exposed to Toxoplasmosis by handling raw meat or gardening without gloves. Ask your doctor to do a blood test to measure the Toxoplasmosis titer in your blood out of which the doctor can tell you if you have antibodies to Toxoplasmosis indicating a past exposure and hence little or no risk of passing it to your unborn child.
Here's what you can do to prevent Toxoplasmosis in pregnancy:
• Avoid the cat litter • Always eat your meats fully cooked • Wear gloves when handling soil • Wash all produce very well to avoid exposure
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